Snake Bite and Constriction Prevention

Fist thing you can do to prevent snake bite to look for the warnings they will give you saying they will bite or just that they don't want to be handled weather you chose to heed those warnings is up to you. the first thing the will do that says leave me alone is try to flee or curl up if that fails they may hiss if that fails they will strike the or four times these are generally warning strikes meaning that they will hit you with there mouth but will not stick there teeth in if this still fails they will deliver a final strike this means they will strike hit and sink there teeth in an hold there pressure if this happens do not pull back because there teeth curve backwards this will only injure you worse instead pinch there back jaws and lift up and out if they mistake you for prey they may bite as well as constrict the first thing to do is turn on a hot shower this will loosen the muscles never yous cold water this will tighten the muscles. and remember snakes bite for 2 reasons and 2 reasons only 1 they have mistaken you for food 2 they are in fear of there safety snakes DO NOT bite because they are mean so their fore if your snake bites you it's always your fault either you weren't very careful when you were feeding it or you ignore it's warnings.

corn snake care sheet

I highly recommend corn snakes for a first time snake owner assuming a healthy one is chosen.

Temperatures
temperature shoul be from 90-95degrese Ferlinghetti don't let the cool end drop under 75.

Humidity
this is no problem 30-40% 50-60% when shedding.

Housing
keep a hatching in a 5.5-10gallon and as a adult keep in a 75gallon tank they will not get over 6ft and average 4-5ft

Feeding
they are great eaters and will eat just about anything.

Handling
they are a little bit squirmy at first but will soon calm down.

red tail boa care sheet

The only reason that I don't recommend red tail boas for beginners is because of there size keep in mind if you buy a red tail boa it will be at least 6ft but more likely 8-10ft and weigh at least 50lbs

temperature

temperature should range from 90-95degree Fahrenheit don't let the cool end drop below 70.

Humidity

humidity should range from 50-60% 75% when shedding.

Housing
red tails are very active and a new borne should be housed in a 40 gallon tank they get huge and as adults should have at the very least a 120gallon tank I recommend aspin for these snakes 2 water boles and a hide.

Handling
boas are docile and tame and yet holding an adult boa alone is not easy and when it is over 7ft(and yes it will get that big) you should have someone help you hold it.

Feeding

boas are not picky eaters at all and feeding frozen thawed food should be no problem. feed in a separate cage

Rainbow Boa Care Sheet

I can honestly say that I do not recommend Columbian rainbow boa or for that matter any rainbow boa to a beginner first of all beacouse they need extremely high amount of humidity constantly and by that I mean below 65% humidity will cause respiratory infections that can kill it. 2ndly they are among the most aggressive snakes in the world

TEMPERATURE

temperature does not need to as high as the cage of say a ball python or a red tail boa witch needs to stay around 95degrease Ferlinghetti ins-ted you can keep your rainbow boas cage at 85 at high and low of 70.

HUMIDITY

for most owners keeping the right humidity is the hardest thing keep humidity at 75-80% humidity and at 95-100% when there shedding.

FEEDING

these snakes are probable the best feeders in the snake industry the will eat anything you put in front of them they start out on fuzzys and as adults eat medium to large rats.

HOUSING

these are heavy bodied snakes but generally do not get longer then 5 feet so can be kept in a 30gallon home for humidity porpoises i recommend using rubber made tubs.

HANDLING

these are strong fast and highly agressive snakes with powerful jaws constant handling can make them somewhat tame but these snakes in general are not tame

Care Sheet for Ball Python

First thing I would like to say about ball pythons, if you browse the internet, many will tell you it is a beginner snake. However, I am one of the very few who do not recommend this snake for beginner Herpetoculturalists. This is because you have to know strategies and the proper technique to get them to eat dead food.

Many first time owners will attempt to feed dead food and if this fails they will immediately switch to live food. This can be harmful to the python, and feeding your snake live rodents can be cause injury or even fatal injury.

If you are a beginner and you are interested in purchasing a ball python, follow the feeding tips I will list below before purchasing the snake. With that said, let's move to ball python care.

First things first:

✔Temperature:
I like to keep mine at a basking temperature of 95 degrees fahrenheit. Heat lights and heat bulbs are not necessary. These can suck out the humidity and burn the snake. I simply use 2x under the tank heat pads. These are all they need for heat source. Do not let the cool end drop below 75 degrees at any time. avoid heat rocks.
Humidity:
Normal humidity I like to keep at 45-55 percent. However, when they are shedding, 65-75 is better. Don't let the humidity go above 80 at anytime, because it will cause bacteria to grow.

✔Housing:
First thing about housing, start your hatchling off with a 20 gallon tank. This will be good for 1 year. Then I recommend upgrading to a 40 gallon, and this will be sufficient for the remainder of their life. Do not put them in to too large of a tank as this will stress them out and they will stop eating.

I like to use aspen shavings for substrate. This is because it is easy to spot clean and does not grow bacteria easy.

You only need one hide. It should be tight so they feel secure.

Your snake will need 2 water bowls. One kept warm for soaking and humidity and the other kept cool for drinking.


✔FEEDING: if you know anything about ball pythons you know that ball pythons are picky eaters it's hard to get them to eat dead frozen thawed food if the food is a little to small or a little to big they may refuse to eat it but don't be fooled when your local bet store tells you that when it comes to ball pythons sometimes you have no choice but to feed them live rodents. I'm hear to tell you that you always have a choice and the right one is to feed frozen thawed dead rodents they will eat dead food all it takes is just trying a few different methods I've had three ball pythons in my life and they all eat dead food one of witch was on live food for three months an I had no trouble switching to frozen thawed food the first thing to do is give it time don't try feeding for at least a week after you bring it home then when your snake is slithering around it's cage flickering its tong rapidly that is when you know he's hungry offer it the frozen thawed mouse by holding it by the tail if that doesn't work still holding it by the tail move it around in the cage making it seem alive if that does not work just drop it in their for a 2 hours if still no Luke go to the pet store and ask for some gerbil bedding rub the dead mouse all over the gerbil bedding that all most all ways does the trick remember feed i a separate cage to avoid cage aggression one more time feed dead food and try all these tricks before feeding live food no live rodents live rodents can fight back dead food can not they will eat it it's more nutritious and less expensive.


✔handling ball pythons are fairly easy to handle they are tame and don't move around much just keep in mind that they don't see color like boas and rat snakes ball pythons see inferred so don't put your hand in front of there face and remember to support there body weight.

My Hatchling Ball Python